mike hawkins - thinking out loud

Bizarrely, having been here for three years we had never visited Bordeaux properly.  In fact, hitherto, the mention of a trip to Bordeaux brought me out in a cold sweat, as it meant the annual domestic in Ikea.  

So, as we deserved a bit of day out to celebrate our Anniversary, a TGV was booked and off we went.  What a pleasant surprise and what a beautiful city it is.  Combining history with modernity, the traditional with the contemporary  the city has an interesting vibrancy, which whilst incredibly bustling has a laid back atmosphere underpinning it.  More multicultural than towns and cities, we are now used to, Bordeaux is enhanced by diversity and its resultant energy.

Of course, in a day we have only seen the tip of the iceberg, and I’m sure that this city has its fair share of the problems that are inherent in any conurbation but at first glance they are not apparent to the visitor.  What is apparent, is that there is something for everyone – boasting the longest pedestrian shopping boulevard in Europe there is ample opportunity to feed any retail requirement that anyone could possibly have.  Not merely the multiples either, there are a myriad of independents each with a unique personality and charm – of varying degrees.  Walking from the top of the hill to the bottom, you start with the big name stores and at the end of the marathon walk you are surrounded by numerous small, almost bazaar like, emporia each clamouring for your attention.  In London terms it is Bond Street to Brixton Market in one enormous thoroughfare.

Step into any of the side streets, and you enter a different world however.  Old splendid town houses, small discrete restaurants and classy offices hide away, ignoring the retail frenzy only a few metres away.  The contrast is striking welcome and well worth exploring.

But this is not all that Bordeaux is about.  Move away from this credit card pounding area, and within a few strides you can choose to look at fabulous and historic architecture, stroll along the river's broad banks, eat in one of hundreds of cafes or brasseries or take in the city’s art – the city is awash with statuary and boasts a number of galleries.   It was great to see that all of the buildings and art were being tended to - clean, well preserved there appears to be a high level of civic pride, which permeates throughout.

On top of this there are parks and gardens, again obviously cared for and, perhaps more importantly used.  Funfairs, music, games being played or simply people reading and passing the time  of day.  A day in Bordeaux need not cost money to be pleasurable or rewarding.

By French standards the city is large – it covers a lot of ground – there is a lot of walking to be done.  But an infrastructure of trams links the whole of Bordeaux, efficiently, elegantly and economically.  This system is fabulous and ensures that visitors can explore far more than if they relied on their legs

Our overriding impression of the city of Bordeaux is very favourable.  We will go again and again.  Inevitably we will discover things that are not to be liked, but it is hard to see from which direction they will come.  All we have seen so far are is very positive.  For me, having not been away from the rural quiet  of our immediate region, the people and traffic was astonishing.  But it served to remind me of what we had come to France to avoid on a daily basis – and was certainly bearable for a day and indeed added to the excitement of the experience.  If I need an infusion of city energy, it is to Bordeaux that I shall look.